Alexis is the kind of place people like to go on a Friday night: Getting a table is usually no problem, and if there is a wait, the ouzo-stocked bar makes it tolerable. A familial atmosphere pervades, making diners feel as if they're welcome guests at an entertaining but not too boisterous party. The blue-checkered tablecloths, cheery lighting and tasteful bellydancing inside belie the grungy Burnside Street location, and the fare is heartwarming and heart-healthy. Mediterranean cuisine has achieved a favorable reputation in the last few years because its unctuous foundation, olive oil, has lower levels of bad cholesterol than other oils. But the real reason this yuppie staple is so popular is the taste--who would dip bread in a puddle of Crisco? Alexis has excellent bread and olive oil to keep patrons happy while they gear up for lamb souvlaki, spanakopita or dolmades (stuffed grape leaves). Just be sure to order a salad; Alexis' one weak point is the side of vegetables, which looks as if it came from a can. The swift service effectively quells hunger, and the bill won't break the bank. (CM)

215 W Burnside St., 224-8577. Moderate.