04/23/04 from The Oregonian's Diner

Step into Alexis and perform a double escape: The Mediterranean colors and family atmosphere are a world away from the noisy, gritty surroundings at the west end of the Burnside Bridge, and the dependable menu and year-to-year reliability of the kitchen are an antidote to the mercurial fads and fashions of Portland's restaurant scene. Especially when it's bustling -- when the retsina is flowing, the belly dancers are gyrating and the flaming ouzo-soaked cheese is passing through the dining room like the Olympic torch on its way to Athens -- Alexis feels like home, even if you have not a single drop of Greek blood in you.

Cuisine: Classic, comfy Greek taverna.

Atmosphere: Two dining rooms and a bar, well-insulated from the world outside and decorated in simple Greek style.

Menu: Two dozen sides and appetizers ($2-$11.95); two soups ($2.95); two salads ($2.95-$11.95); 16 main dishes ($11.95-$14.95)

On the cheap: It's difficult to rack up much of a bill here. If you're strapped, steer toward the appetizer menu or split one of the sampler plates.

Must-have dishes: Hearty moussaka; crackling spanakopita; addictive kalamarakia (deep-fried squid); charbroiled souvlaki. You can simplify your decision with a combination plate.

Reason to go: Satisfying food in a homey atmosphere, plus a Greek wine list that will offer even the most eclectic oenophile a change of pace.

Drawbacks: If the new and trendy is your thing, this isn't your place.

Hours: Lunch -- 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mon-Fri; dinner -- 5-10 p.m. Mon-Thu, 5-11 p.m. Fri-Sat.

Extras: Full bar; major credit cards; disabled access; street parking; smoking in bar.

The numbers: 215 W. Burnside St.; 503-224-8577.

-- James McQuillen