Alexis Restaurant
215 W Burnside St, Old Town; 503/224-8577

This boisterous institution of a Greek restaurant is a family operation that makes every diner feel like a cousin: the welcome here is warmer than the flaming saganaki (Greek cheese ignited with ouzo). On their journey toward substantial, fork-tender lamb dishes and other entrees, diners are slowed by plump grape-leaf packets, terrific calamari, and the little pillows of filo and feta known as tiropitas. While being entertained by the appetizers, try not to be filled up by them; moussaka and lamb souvlaki await, and you wouldn't want to miss them. Baskets of addictive warm house bread come with the meal-and if you like what you taste, take heart: Alexis sells it retail, along with various other specialties. The food could even distract you from the belly dancers. $$; AE, DC, MC, V; no checks; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat (belly dancers Fri-Sat); full bar; no reservations necessary.